In The Art of Pilgrimage, Phil Cousineau writes: “What matters most on your journey is how deeply you see, how attentively you hear, how richly the encounters are felt in your heart and soul.” I stood before No. 9, rue de la Tour, no longer the Paris pied-à-terre of...
Village chapels, grand cathedrals, and on the “French Way” alone, at least 51 churches: the religious significance of the Camino de Santiago is obvious to every pilgrim whether a believer or not. Add ancient monasteries like that of San Julián, the oldest in Spain and...
Théophile Alexandre Steinlen (1859-1923) was an artist mad for cats. The Montmartre resident was among the gang in the Paris salons of the 1890s, showing his landscapes, still lifes and nudes, but the minute he graphically designed his most-most loved work, Tournéee...
So, let’s say you’re driving up the Col de l’Iseran in the French Alps, near the Italian border, on your way to Val d’Isère. The French word col translates as pass, but what it means is, if you don’t have your rosary in hand and, eyes squeezed shut, aren’t fervently...
The thing about being a baroness like, say, Noémie de Rothschild, is that one winter you can think, man, I am so sick of St. Moritz for who knows what capricious reason and the next find yourself founder of your own upscale Alps resort. In 1921 this French baroness...
Bye. Jacqueline bounced out the door for her daily two-hour run at dawn, fitting right in with the Chamonix-ers in her supercute beanie and de rigueur down puffer. Camille and I then had time to decide the day. We already had walked the town to and fro for many...
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