Part 27: Away to Sleepaway Camp

I needed to have an important talk with Camino, so waited until he was in a relaxed, receptive mood before perhaps upsetting him with the news. After a lengthy romp in the shower’s puddles, he had just returned to the foldout sofa/bed in our Paris studio, curled...

Part 26: Paris, With Parents

In The Art of Pilgrimage, Phil Cousineau writes: “What matters most on your journey is how deeply you see, how attentively you hear, how richly the encounters are felt in your heart and soul.” I stood before No. 9, rue de la Tour, no longer the Paris pied-à-terre of...

Part 25: Our Lady, Resurrected

Village chapels, grand cathedrals, and on the “French Way” alone, at least 51 churches: the religious significance of the Camino de Santiago is obvious to every pilgrim whether a believer or not. Add ancient monasteries like that of San Julián, the oldest in Spain and...

Part 24: Le Chat Orange Pooh-Poohs Paris

Théophile Alexandre Steinlen (1859-1923) was an artist mad for cats. The Montmartre resident was among the gang in the Paris salons of the 1890s, showing his landscapes, still lifes and nudes, but the minute he graphically designed his most-most loved work, Tournéee...

Part 23: Camille Conquers the Col

So, let’s say you’re driving up the Col de l’Iseran in the French Alps, near the Italian border, on your way to Val d’Isère. The French word col translates as pass, but what it means is, if you don’t have your rosary in hand and, eyes squeezed shut, aren’t fervently...

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